Imagine that you are on another planet, where there is no vegetation, no animals, no reservoirs, only mountains and steppes. Of the animals here survive only rabbits, wolves, dogs and yaks. The air temperature in summer rarely rises above 15 degrees, and the wind is so strong that it can take down a hefty man. There is no Wi-Fi, no connection, not even a regular cell phone. If you break your leg, no one will come to treat you.
Imagined? Welcome to the Pamir steppes!
In the last post I told you about the amazing village of Karakul, stuck between heaven and earth. Now I will tell you how some families from this village live during the summer. I happened to be here by accident, so the probability that there will be a white tourist is about zero, only slightly lower.
The main reason why families leave their homes and go to live in the open steppe is yaks. These are the only domestic animals, not counting dogs, that survive in such harsh conditions. They are unpretentious, withstand low temperatures and also give milk. In fact, the whole family goes to graze yaks in the open steppe, because there is at least some minimal vegetation, unlike the village, which does not grow anything at all.
Two families graze their yaks here. In total, they have a dozen and a half heads of different ages and sizes.
These furry animals are quite aggressive and unpredictable, so they are almost always kept on a leash. I was safely warned about this before I went to take pictures, otherwise the trouble would not have been avoided.
Just a cub, he was born recently, this is his first summer in the Pamirs. In addition to drinking Yak milk and making all sorts of dairy products from it, they also eat them. This kid will also go under the knife when he grows up, this is the law of the Pamir, otherwise there is simply no way to survive here.
Kyrgyz families live here. Kyrgyz people look very different from Tajiks. There are 8 children who spend their days idling on the street, so it is considered a holiday for them to meet foreigners. A Kyrgyz girl poses against the background of a mountain steppe.
I have long noticed that Asian children have a special beauty and charm. They are incredibly photogenic, even in spite of the grimy faces and ragged clothing that most often.
This is the main house. He’s in the title photo. They cook, sleep and spend time in it. It is made of a wooden frame covered with plywood. To keep warm, the top of the house is wrapped with skins and various rags. Please note that there is a solar panel on the roof, which is the only way to get electricity here. Basically, electricity is used to use light at night. The house has a stove that heats the room in particularly cold weather.
This is the second house, if you can call it that. It is much more modest, but people also live here. Mostly, of course, they sleep. The boys say Hello.
Yaks in this environment look very apocalyptic. In General, the Pamir is incredibly beautiful and most unusual. I have never met a more authentic and atmospheric place.
Despite such harsh conditions, life here is an incredible visual and aesthetic pleasure. You can come here with a tent to live, to learn the truth, to be alone with nature. This will be worse than Tibet, but much easier.
Could you live here for a month?
Share if you liked the post. It’s important for me to know that it’s not for nothing.